Printed muslin - the base layer of the cuff.
The second layer of fabric is a loose weave cotton
I used silk thread on the top and white bobbin thread underneath
The bobbin thread does show a little on the top so next time I'm using matching thread.
Coating both layers of fabric with a diluted fabric stiffner (it smells like regular white glue) and quilting gloves
made it much easier to control when doing the free motion embroidery